Sunday, 4 October 2009

Hiking the Wild Great Wall of China

The Great Wall of China is apart from anything else, a magnificent monument and reminder to mans perseverance. Back in 2007, I had the privilege to assist in organizing a hike along a section of the Great Wall. Because the wall is a protected monument, we had to obtain special permission to walk on a section not open to the public. It was about a 2 hour drive outside of Beijing and a short walk to a trail head that wound up a very steep hillside to gain access to the wall itself.

We entered the wall through a "guards gate" in the wall and then commenced our walk. The wall was in remarkable condition, the paving and walls still amazingly intact. There were sections becoming overgrown with scrub that will unless removed damage the paving and wall. Some sections of the wall and parapets were broken, however, there was little evidence of scavenging by local villagers looking for building material.
The wall wound up and down in steep sections between the 5 guards towers we walked through until we descended off the wall to a small village near a national park. This section, like many others, follows the ridges so that the guards could oversee the surrounding country. Our guide, an official with deep knowledge of the history of the wall, told us of the way the wall was constructed and how it developed over the years.

All I can say is, if you ever get the chance to walk a section of the wall, preferably away from tourists, do so. The experience of hiking in the quiet stillness of the hills and ridge-lines is quite amazing, quite different from the normal hiking in wilderness that we are used to. On the wall, its not so difficult to feel the presence of those that labored an toiled centuries ago.

Monday, 20 April 2009

Rombakk Revisited (April Hike)

Back from the wilds of Rombakk Fjord and the Navvy Trail in winter (early April).
I took 30 good folk down the trail from Kateratt to Rombaksbotten. There was deep snow all the way again. The snowshoeing was fantastic - even if I had to break the trail the whole way.
We saw the Elk again, a mother & calf just before the main bridge. Great that the area is so wild, dramatic and beautiful - and so accessible.
Tiring but fantastic. We had a break at mid way for coffee and continued on the upper Naturisti trail as the lower route along the river was to deep & uneven with snow & ice (for safety).
We made it out to the head of the fjord in 3 hours for what was a gourmet hikers lunch in the tent and then a fast RIB ride out to Narvik coutesy KIKKI.
We then caught the train back to Riksgransen. Wonderful - recommended. Very different from the summer hike.

Monday, 2 March 2009

Katterat to Rombak winter Hike

Firstly, it was a wonderful hike and one of the nicest snowshoes hikes Ive done for a long time.
Beautiful and dramatic scenery. Train from Riksgransen to Katterat (about 15min) - Hike from Katterat - Rombaksbotn 2.5hrs. From the train station, go back about 50m and find the signs that point down between the houses. Follow the signs, the trail zigzags down and then basically follows the river going steadily down. There was a fair bit of snow in the upper parts that sometimes hid the trail. The trail is marked by signposts (in summer the trail is quite clear)
but with heavy & deep snow causing trees to bend over & lay across the path - the path has to be "intuited"at times. Duck under or go around them, keep a heads up view to see the avenue through the trees in forest sections.
However, you cant really get lost. There were trail posts and markers at significant places.
We had about 0.1 -0.3mt of powder snow over packed snow and some drifts along the upper trail that were deeper in places. The snowshoeing was easy going. While the trail had snow drifts obscuring it in places, it was possible to follow the avenue of trees (mostly). The trail often has a drop-off on one side that makes the trail easy to follow - dont walk too close to the edge:).

The trail basically follows the river, so if you are heading down-valley between the trees, path, markers and river - its fairly easy to follow, even with the snow cover.
Once over the main bridge (dont cross the first one - it takes you back uphill to Bjornfjell).
Follow the path along the river until the Rallarveien/ Naturisti sign.
The lower route was very difficult with a lot of up/down & snow/ice along the river valley. We decided on the upper Naturisti trail that follows along the edge of the big morain.
We kicked into the snow and ice and scrambled up to the top on the path. The trail is less clear but basically winds around the edge of the morain (following the river). There are some sign posts along the way. Its was a flat walk in deeper snow through trees. Again, heavy snow caused trees to bend over the "trail", it was indistinct here but really you are following the morain edge. There is a first glimse of the head of the fjord. Keep going alomg the edge till it wraps back and opens over a clearing. You come out with the first real view of the head of the fjord at the power lines. Work down the clearing to the path and follow it to Rombaksbotn. The bridges over streams in the delta area were covered in snow and ice and could be walked around. The path follows a small stream - keep on the south side of that until the path is obvious, an avenue through the trees - you soon come out at the festival ground - you've made it.

Make sure you organise a way out or you have to hike back up to the railway line along the same route or cross country - estimate 3.5 - 4 hours to do that. We were lucky to hook up with a RIB boat tour coming to Rombaksbotn so got a lift out. In summer there is a regular boat.
All in all - a great walk to earn a beer at the end :)


Image 1 : "end" on the going down from Katterat.
Image 2 : is heading along the river towards the main bridge, you can just see it in the photo.
Image 4 : just after the bridge, heading for the Rallarveien/Naturisti sign (about 1/2-1km)
Image 5 : head of the fjord
Image 6 : is looking down from the train going back to Riksgransen. The bridge in the above photo is right in the very last snow area in the valley V (tiny horizontal line in photo).
The trees below the hill on the left is the morain after the bridge.

Sunday, 22 February 2009

Mumbai Terrorist Attacks Analysis

I like so many others was saddened and astonished by the Mumbai attacks. To try to gather, follow and understand all the confusing information, I have gathered as much as possible into a "Mind Map". You can follow the progress on Mindomo.com : http://tinyurl.com/6x6dz4 25

More about Rombak Hike

If you don't want to do this yourself, it's easy to book a hike through one of the local operators. Riksgransen Hotel, Abisko Tourist Station, Bjorkliden Hotel, Narvik Tourist office and many more offered as an organised hike, ie you pay for guide, lunch boat as a package.
Normally done in summer, the walk is all downhill to the pier and a pickup by boat out to Narvik along the fjord. The boat passes a WW2 wreck of a destroyer up against the shore on the south side of the fjord. Rombak fjord was the site of one of the largest ever sea battles (WW2).

Rombak Fjord Hike (Norway)

This hike is 8km (about 2hrs). You start at Katterat Station. The only way to Katterat is to catch the train from either Narvik or Riksgransen. Or, you need to hike in from the main road close to Bjornfjell and travel along the railway track all the way to Katterat. That is quite a hike (day hike).
From Riksgransen or from Narvik - get off the train and start the hike (all downhill).
This is a wonderful hike, taking in a wealth of natural and cultural history. The trip starts at Katterat station, where follow the 100-year-old “Rallarvägen” (old navvy road), a transport route that was constructed for the building of the “Malmbanan” ore freight railway. The route is lined with dramatic scenery and remnants of history.
There is a bridge crossing over the river on the way to the pier. This is close to the site of the old village of Rombakksbotten, which lies at sea level.
You need to arrange a boat out from the pier.

This is a link to a Topographical Map of the Katterat area : Rombak Hike (original link)

Check summer boat times at the Narvik Tourist office.
By the way - you are welcome to update the Google Map of the Hike.


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